Structu'r'temps jour — ingredient safety report

• Allergy risk:Fragrance is the single most common cause of cosmetic contact allergy.
• Irritation:Frequent trigger of stinging and redness on reactive skin.

An umbrella term that can hide dozens of undisclosed scent chemicals. Fragrance is the leading cause of allergic contact dermatitis from cosmetics, and dermatologists routinely advise fragrance-free products for eczema, babies and sensitive skin.

• Allergy risk:EU-declarable allergen; oxidation products are potent sensitizers.

The citrus-peel scent molecule. Like linalool, it becomes allergenic mainly after oxidizing in opened products.

• Allergy risk:EU-declarable allergen; use concentrations limited by industry standards.

A synthetic lily-of-the-valley scent and well-documented contact allergen.

• Allergy risk:American Contact Dermatitis Society Allergen of the Year 2018.
• Irritation:Can irritate compromised skin at higher concentrations.

A workhorse humectant and penetration enhancer that is fine for most, but a recurring culprit in eczema patients' patch tests.

• Allergy risk:EU-declarable fragrance allergen.

A floral fixative on the EU allergen list, with early-stage evidence of weak hormonal activity being evaluated by regulators.

• Allergy risk:One of the 26 EU-declarable fragrance allergens.
• Irritation:Mild irritation possible at higher concentrations.

A preservative and fragrance component that must be declared on EU labels because it can trigger contact allergy in a small share of users.

• Allergy risk:EU-declarable fragrance allergen.

A violet-type scent chemical requiring EU allergen declaration.

• Allergy risk:A classic 'natural' contact allergen, especially with damaged skin.

Bee-glue resin with soothing lore and a well-documented contact-allergy record — a common blind spot in natural skincare.

• Allergy risk:EU-declarable fragrance allergen.

A rose-type scent component on the EU's mandatory-declaration allergen list.

• Allergy risk:EU-declarable allergen found in tonka bean and many perfumes.

A sweet hay-scented molecule requiring EU allergen declaration; a regular positive in fragrance patch-test series.

• Irritation:Can irritate sensitive or compromised skin.

A synthetic preservative capped at 0.3% in the EU; generally tolerated but a known occasional irritant.

• Environmental impact:Classified vPvB (very persistent, very bioaccumulative); EU restricts it in cosmetics from 2027.

A volatile silicone giving that silky slip, now being phased down in the EU because it persists and accumulates in aquatic ecosystems.

• Environmental impact:vPvB classified; EU restriction from 2027 alongside D5.

A cyclic silicone facing the same 2027 EU environmental restrictions as D5.

• Irritation:Occasional transient stinging or redness on sensitive skin.

A mild food-grade preservative usually paired with sodium benzoate; well tolerated by most skin types.

• Environmental impact:Not biodegradable; accumulates in the environment via wash-off.

The workhorse silicone — inert and non-sensitizing on skin (even FDA-approved as a skin protectant), with persistence in the environment as its main criticism.

• Environmental impact:Poorly biodegradable; can remobilize heavy metals in waterways.

A metal-binding stabilizer that is safe on skin at the tiny amounts used; its criticism is environmental persistence.